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Lugging a backpack around

25/6/2022

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Boy, you’re gonna carry that weight a long time.
Person in shorts on a bridge over a small brown creek
Standing on a bridge that's been built on a fallen tree in Plenty Gorge (note the name on the left). Photo by Emily.
I didn’t get a chance to do any big walks for a while after the one in the hills. We’ve been busy. We bought a house (yay!), then we were in Melbourne for Dan’s temp job (yay!) and the weather was fairly miserable (not yay!). Instead of beating myself up about not getting the distances in, I decided to work on something else: carrying my pack.
framed by a tree, the lake reflects surrounding park trees and a blue sky
The lake in Queens Park, Essendon. I walked through here to meet Dan after work.
I’ve been getting bits of gear together, weighing everything, and trying to figure out how, exactly, I have managed to create such a heavy load. My tent weighs less than 500g, for goodness’ sake! Of course, the answer is boring: everything adds up. Every extra item - a second hanky or bandanna, multivitamin tablets, an extra piece of cutlery, a pair of thongs as camp shoes - contributes to overall weight. Then I add food for 3-6 days. And then I fill up my bottles and bam! - an extra 2kg just for fun.
large piles painted bright yellow, one with a stylised image of a dog chasing a ball, indicating the dog park just beyond.
Under the Upfield line, where it's been raised and new paths, parks and community areas built beneath.
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Under the same lines on the same walk.
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A scale replica of the old station, with a mini library in it.
Now, once I’ve got everything I need (or want) and have done a final weight analysis, there will be things that I decide not to bring, or will bring less/fewer of, or will make fill the function of other items. But all told, I think that when I’m fully loaded with two (or more) litres of water and food for 3-5 days, I’ll be carrying somewhere in the realm of 15-17kg. This might not sound like much, and probably a kilo of that will be in my bumbag, but let me tell you, it can feel like a sack of bricks! This is especially the case because I find my backpack is really only comfortable for carrying weights below about 13kg. Other people say the Osprey Exos 48 is very comfortable to 15kg or 18kg, but that’s not true for me.
two hands holding stainless steel mugs of tea in front of a rocky landscape with green trees
Cheers! Emily and I sharing a cup of tea at Plenty Gorge.
So, in order to get used to carrying a heavy load, I’ve been... carrying gradually heavier loads. Makes sense, right? I’ve packed my backpack with our heaviest tent (for bulk), then piled in a few litres of water, padded with some extra bits and pieces to stop the bottles and thermoses clunking and rattling. I’ve left some of the usual things in my bag - first aid kit, sunscreen, insect repellent - and it usually brings the total carry up to around 10-13kg.
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Old signage on a walk through Brunswick.
official no entry sign with an added sticker saying DON'T READ THE HERALD SUN
Some good advice crossing the rail lines in Brunswick.
The first time I did this, I almost keeled over and had to take one of the thermoses out. It has been a long time since I’ve carried this much. In the UK, I was used to doing overnight or shorter walks, with minimal equipment and pubs on hand for lunch. That’s not quite the deal on the Heysen Trail. I needed to harden up a bit. But I needed to harden up softly - I didn’t want to injure myself.
Asphalted alleyway faced with many syles of roller door and fence, with lots of pot plants along the sides
A well-used, wide alleyway in Brunswick, on a walk to Ceres.
I went out for short walks with this setup 3 or 4 times a week. They were mostly suburban strolls along relatively flat streets, but I also went on a couple of more bushy walks with my friend Emily. Only a couple of these walks lasted more than an hour, but I started getting used to the pack. I think it’s partly a mental game. It’s different when I’m actually out on an overnight walk and need the things in my pack - but when it’s just a training walk I keep thinking, “What is the point of lugging 5kgs of water around the block?” Anyway, I’m still experiencing strain on my shoulders, and still getting used to the forward lean to counterbalance the pack. I also know that when the pack’s full of things that are less dense than water it will carry differently - I’m hoping that will help a little, because it has in the past! I just need to keep slogging away, building up to carry the heaviest load I think I’ll encounter in, say, the first week on trail, then building up the distance as well.
Selfie of two people in raincoats, walking on a bush path,smiling with squinting eyes
Me and Emily, squinting into the drizzle at Bunjil Reserve. Pic by Emily.
Tiny, shiny orange mushrooms among moss and leaf litter
Cute lil orange boyos at Bunjil Reserve.
At this point in my training - around 5 weeks out from the start date - I’m pretty confident that I can walk the distances and elevation required every day. Some of them will be long, hard days, but I’m not in bad walking condition. I’m less confident that I can do it with a fully loaded pack. So, I need to keep working at it. Again, it’s boring, but that’s how it is.
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Bob Ross mural in one of the alleys behind Bunnings in Brunswick.
Other updates are:
  • We’ve bought tickets to Adelaide! Dan will come with me to South Australia, we’ll see some friends, do a bit of extra shopping (gas, lighter), drive up and drop my three resupply boxes, then he’ll take me to the start of the walk. After that, he’ll come home (taking a couple of days), and I’ll start walking!
  • I haven’t done any overnight walks, but I have camped out in the garden a couple of times. The last time I did this, it was pretty chilly - maybe about 2-3 degrees overnight - and I was almost warm enough in what I had. I do want to get a lightweight merino hoodie that I can wear as a sleep top to keep the draughts out of my neck (my buff will be on my head if it’s that cold).
  • I’ve also been going back and forth on an extra pair of sleep socks and some warm mittens. I have struck a great compromise (I hope) with a bit of DIY. I’ve cut the arms off a $4 puffy jacket from the op shop, and I’m about to get on with some sewing. I’ll close in the cuff/toe/finger end, tidy up the leg/arm end, and unpick/seal a little thumb hole in the seam. Then I’ll have some lightweight, warm sleeping booties that double up as cosy mittens if I need them. And when I don’t need them for my feet I can add them to my pillow pile.
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Tent set up in the back yard, ready for a cold night!
Pinky puffy jacket
A nice puffy jacket, ready for butchering.
Two sleeves of the puffy jacket, hacked off and showing the white interior. a pair of black scissors lies on one sleeve
And so it begins!

Pictures taken on Wurundjeri Country and Gunaikurnai Country. This always was, and always will be, Aboriginal land.

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Walk: Brunswick parks loop

5/6/2022

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At least it keeps us off the streets…
Brick wall with the following painted in fading white: GROCERIES BUTTER EGGS
Ghost sign on a building in Carlton North.
Just before 8am, we popped out onto Sydney Road, then took a little detour through Warr Park before heading up Albion Street to A Minor Place. We hadn’t been there since getting back to Australia this time around, so this was a long overdue breakfast! I had the tofu poke bowl and Dan had Henry’s White Beans with an egg. The white beans are a classic and have been on the menu since I used to come here to “work” on my PhD. They’re still excellent, as is the coffee (my breakfast was good overall, but some of the items were a little lacklustre). Absolutely stuffed with food, we joked we wouldn’t need to eat again until dinner with friends at the Cornish Arms.
Streetscape showing green and yellow tram and a line of two story buildings with shop fronts along the bottom story
Sydney Road with tram. Iconic.
Green wall with informative sign and hand painted signs about how to pick veggies
Warr Park has an edible garden for people to harvest from.
Pink flowers planted at a street corner below a bike and give way sign, in the background a person pedalling a bike with a young child on the back
Pretty planting on Albion Street.
Two older houses, mirror images of each other, with paling fences and a tree at the front
Two houses, both alike in dignity... Classic Brunswick look.
East on Albion, then along one of Melbourne’s bluestone alleys to Allard Park and the oval. The idea of this route was to (a) keep off conventional streets and roads as much as possible and (b) make the loop into a ~15km walk by going the long way around any parks we encountered. So, around the oval we went, pleased to see the bocce pitch (field? court?) was still there. Up onto the little hill to survey Jones Park, the trees along the creek, the golden domes of the orthodox church. Then finally down to the Merri Creek path.
Concrete path and line of trees curving around a green oval with four white Australian Rules goal posts
I think I snapped this in a moment of, "Oh yeah, posts, not nets!"
White bowl with colourful veggies, tofu, herbs and condiments
My breakfast.
Grey bowl with pale brown beans topped with poached egg, rocket, toast and a slice of lemon
Dan's breakfast.
Small pond reflecting grasses and trees, with small building in the background
A lovely pond in a part of the parkland that has really grown into itself since we lived here.
There were works on the path to the south, and the detour took us through Ceres, which offered lots to look at (gardens, chooks, sculpture) and some toilets for a quick pit stop. We enjoyed the new-to-us footbridge and viewing platform under Blyth Street, then crossed the creek to continue on the unsealed paths on the other side. There were a lot of signs warning for snakes. Attenzione serpenti! We didn’t see any serpenti. But we did see a kindergarten group doing activities, and were greeted enthusiastically by one of the kids (reminded me of the kid at the You Yangs!). It was really pleasant to follow the familiar-but-unfamiliar path along the creek. Apparently it was opened by Bob Hawke - now there’s some political history for you. (Politics was on our mind, as the federal election loomed. Thankfully the result wasn't terrible.)
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Merri Merri with autumn colours.
Yellow warning sign with snake silhouette, where someone has written on saying I'M A SLIPPERY LITTLE SNEAKY SNAKE
Serpenti!
Home-printed sign - MAN WITH BULLDOG. [YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE] PLEASE STOP LEAVING YOUR DOG POOH BAGS HERE. USE BINS NEAR THE OVALS ON EITHER SIDE OF MERRI CREEK.
Man with bulldog (you know who you are).
Creek surrounded by trees
Merri Merri further downstream.
The path loops under and back around on St Georges Road (NB: Australia doesn't use apostrophes in place names), and then a little while later we turned off onto the Capital City Trail. We hadn’t brought our raincoats, so when the light sprinkle started turning to drizzle, we sat under a picnic/BBQ shelter along with various evacuees of the play ground and a few fuzzy pigeons. We also spoke to my aunt, who has recently had surgery - everything went well, and she’s recovering nicely, which is great news.
Creek under blue and white sky surrounded by trees
A glimpse of the creek that felt like it was hardly in suburbia at all.
Concrete bridge with three arches covered in bright graffiti
Under the bridge at St Georges Road. This at least has not changed!
Walking along Park Street reminded us of one time when we walked the whole Capital City Trail in a day - which remains, I believe, the furthest I’ve walked in a single day. As we got towards Lygon Street, I also recalled what the area looked like when I lived near Drummond Street in my second year in Melbourne, before we met. The trees have grown up so much, and places like the North Carlton Railway Neighbourhood House really enliven the green corridor.
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This sign seems to assume I'll know what a "Kidney Parliament" is?
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One of many little reserves.
Steel pole with various stickers and signs, the main one showing hands in handcuffs and the text COPS ARE NOT OUR FRIENDS
Correct.
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Ghost sign for Bushells Tea, having had some sort of touch up over the years.
At Princes Park, we strolled down and around the Carlton football ground (I think it’s called Ikon Oval at the moment) and enjoyed the autumnal colours of the deciduous trees. The weather was also suitably autumnal - occasionally chilly enough to pull my sleeves down and do up the zipper on my fleece, but five minutes later warm enough that I almost considered taking the jumper off altogether.
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The Railway Garden near the neighbourhood house.
Three hakea flowers - like pinky red balls with a huge number of pale yellow stamens poking out like a pincushion
The hakeas are out!
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This yellow rose had a nice smell.
We didn’t go all the way into Royal Park this time, instead heading down another long bluestone alley into Brunswick West, then starting our extremely meandering route back north via Temple Park, Gilpin Park, Clifton Park and Clifton Park West, Brunswick Park and the Gillon Oval.
Concrete path curves right and left, as a narrow but clearly defined dirt path curves left and right over a small grassy rise
Love the very obvious desire path here.
Looking down the middle of a street with small patch of city skyline at the end
A glimpse of the city from Carlton North.
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Bluestone alleyway, Brunswick.
Small terrace house, the top of a fence with each paling painted a different colour - pink, purple, yellow, blue, red, aqua
Colourful fence!
Somewhere in these parks, we both started flagging. I think the main issue was that we knew we were so close to home, but still had a few kilometres to walk before getting there! But of course, eventually we were done. We headed east along Hope Street (possibly our longest conventional street stretch of the whole walk), then north on the Upfield Bike Path to connect the loop. Despite having sworn I was too full for lunch, I managed a very hearty slice of toast before we crashed for an afternoon nap.
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There were a lot of culverts/pipes waiting to go in the ground along this street.
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Scribbly tree trunk.
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Gum leaves and flowers.

Notes

This was an easy walk, without a pack, over fairly flat terrain. My feet felt OK, though towards the end I opted to walk on the grass rather than the hard path where possible. I didn’t get any blisters, but probably would have if I’d kept going another 5km (especially if I hadn’t been able to dry out my socks a bit).
Gravel path and low wooden bridge through grassland dotted with eucalyptus trees
Gilpin Reserve (or Gilpin Park as it is maybe actually called) has a great variety of native trees.
Map with a dark blue line twisting through several parks
Our twisty route north!
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Slightly brutalist stand!
I got quite a sore lower back as I sometimes do, especially when I'm not carrying a pack. This is something I’m hoping might start to improve in future as a friend of mine offered me some free online Alexander Technique sessions after reading about this issue in a previous post. I'm enjoying the sessions and I’ve noticed I’m getting far less sore in my neck area, which is great. Two of the techniques I was given to try during the lesson before this walk were (1) to ask myself, “How can I do less?” and (2) to tell myself, “I am not walking” (when walking, or standing when standing), and see what changes occur in my body. It was quite interesting, and something I’m sure will continue to evolve!
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Brunswick Park. I lived in Brunswick for many years and never realised there was a Brunswick Park.
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Great combination of fonts and colours in this window.
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A pocket sized park below new high rises, Brunswick.

This walk is on the lands of the Wurrundjeri people. This country was never ceded and it always was, and always will be, Aboriginal land.

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Merri Merri morning and thoughts about gadgetry

29/5/2022

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The familiar has become unfamiliar…
Outdoor velodrome with a terracotta coloured wall with BRUNSWICK in large black letters. The centre is green grass and a large pylon carries wires overhead.
The Brunswick Velodrome. I think the last time I saw this (not IRL) was in a Courtney Barnett music video.
A few days after our You Yangs outing, Dan and I were due to meet a friend for morning tea at Ceres. We arrived a couple of hours early and headed north on Merri Merri (Merri Creek) in the almost-drizzle. We made it all the way up to Coburg Lake Reserve before turning around.
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A huge new footbridge over the Merri near Ceres!
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The bouncy Harding Street Bridge, probably going to be replaced.
This was a path we walked many, many times when we lived near the creek in Thornbury, and it was lovely to revisit the area - even if some of the changes made us feel like strangers in our old neighbourhood! There’s a big new footbridge across the creek at Ceres, the trees and shrubs have all grown up, there’s new signage (directional and informational), the market garden at the swing bridge (which has “save our bridge” banners on it) has become quite the destination as an outpost of Ceres with its little cafe. It was a lovely walk, and I hardly took any photos, so I’m not going to dwell on it here
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The market gardens near the Harding Street Bridge - they were buzzing with people harvesting veg and flowers.
My training notes for this outing are: it helped ease my achy calves from our You Yangs walk (and so did a serious stretching session afterwards); I almost got another blister on my right toe; and thankfully I can actually walk fast - if only over flat terrain, on easy paths and without a pack (11km in 2hrs 15min).
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Love the kingfisher mural, brightening up a dull area of housing beside a small community garden.
Low angle shot of a concrete path where someone has written ACAB into the wet concrete
Set in stone. Well, concrete.
At an outdoor cafe, a magpie perches on the back of a seat, while on the table are dirty plates and serviettes
Magpie just missed out on our toasties.

Thoughts about gadgetry

I haven’t posted a lot about my Heysen Trail prep other than training walks I’ve done, but I’ve been making some decisions about what gear to take. I thought some of you might be interested. If not, feel free to close the tab now! This little ramble is about navigation, emergency beacons (PLBs) and gadgets.
One thing you need to think about when walking in remote places is safety. Let me start by saying: I already have a one-use-only emergency beacon (Personal Locator Beacon, or PLB) and a smart phone. I went back and forth on getting a Garmin Inreach or a SPOT for the Heysen. I’d pretty much ruled out the SPOT and was really researching the benefits of the Mini vs Explorer Inreach. But in the end, I decided against it. Why? Cost and weight/bulk.

The benefits of getting a Garmin, depending on the model, can include: topo maps, GPS tracking (e.g. onto a map that friends/family can check from afar), texting (even/especially when phone reception is bad), weather updates, emergency beacon and additional comms options in case of an emergency. This makes it a lot more useful than my one-use-only PLB. Also, the battery life isn’t bad and it would extend the battery of my phone (because using GPS on the phone when looking at maps uses a lot of juice).

These are all great things, so what’s holding me back? First, it’s hundreds of dollars for the device ($400+ for the Mini, $600+ for the Explorer), then you have to pay a subscription fee for $20-$100 a month (with the more basic plans, you also have to pay for tracking points and extra messaging). NB: there are cheaper ways to do it - either by buying second hand, borrowing or renting the device. So, that’s something to keep in mind if you really want to take a Garmin with you on a trip.

The other issue is I don’t want to carry more devices than I need to. My phone should be able to do a lot of what the Garmin does. I can download topo maps for offline use (e.g. Gaia premium), I can get weather updates (though only when I have internet reception, but I can check the 5 day forecast when available), I can text (when I have phone reception), I can get updates on the water tanks from other walkers (i.e. FarOut/Guthook). Paying for premium Gaia and buying FarOut for the track costs less than buying a Garmin and paying for the subscription. Plus, my phone can take photos (I have made the decision - which I may regret! - to leave my camera behind).

Of course, the phone won’t be any good in an emergency if I'm out of range and, as I said, using it for GPS tracking gobbles up the battery. It’s also possible that it will just crack the shits and stop working (Garmin is, as far as I’m aware, a much sturdier piece of equipment). So, what are my plans for that?
  • First, I already have a Personal Locator Beacon - a one-time-use emergency beacon. While this doesn’t give you the option to communicate with emergency responders (e.g. texting info about your injury or location), it is only for absolute emergencies when I don’t have phone reception - in that case, I don’t know how well I’d be able to text anyway. I don’t need to pay any extra subscription fees for the PLB.
  • Second, I will have my phone turned to aeroplane mode most of the time, which uses less battery, and I will carry a larger battery/charging pack to get me through the long stretches without power. I was planning to get a big battery pack - and I may have needed to use it for the Garmin anyway - so this isn’t such a big deal.
  • Third, I will carry the paper maps as a back up if my phone doesn’t work. To be honest, I’d probably carry them even if I had a Garmin because (a) you get a much better overview of the area on a spread out paper map than on a small screen and (b) paper maps don’t ever run out of batteries. Also, I do love a paper map!
I guess the main things I’ll miss (which I’d have with a Garmin) are the ability to have (e.g.) hourly “pings” onto a map so family/friends can trace my progress, and the ability to text when I have no phone reception. But the former is a nice to have rather than an essential, and the latter… well, people managed to do long walks before mobile phones were invented, so I think I’ll be OK. Maybe I’ll have to miss out on a couple of days of comms with loved ones, but that’s just part of the experience.

Merri Merri (Merri Creek) is part of the lands of the Wurrundjeri people, as is much of the wider Melbourne area. This country was never ceded and it always was, and always will be, Aboriginal land.

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Into the City: Brunswick to Southbank

13/4/2022

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A different kind of walk-and-swim outing.
City skyline under a blue and cloudy sky, viewed from over an expanse of grass
Let's go that way! View of the city skyline from the native grassland circle in Royal Park.
I didn’t want to spend a day of our short Melbourne break doing a 25km walk and rendering myself useless for any socialising in the evening. But I did want to do a walk long enough to count as ‘training’ - i.e. a minimum of around 10km. So, we decided to walk from our spot on Sydney Rd in Brunswick to my sister’s place high up in the sky on Southbank. The direct route is more like 8km (and a bit boring), so we added a few scenic diversions.
Street scene with a sign for Tabet's Bakery, healthy lebanese pizzas & pies
Mmm, time for some tasty treats for lunch. I've missed Sydney Road!
Person walking in front of brightly coloured graffiti
Along the Upfield line in Brunswick.
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No biggie, just catching up with an old friend!
We started off by calling in to Tabets for some late lunchy snacks, then stepped over onto the bike path that runs beside the Upfield line. It’s always fun to revisit the old haunts and see what’s changed and what hasn’t since we lived in the area. And on the bike path we ran into an old friend! Kate, who made so much tasty food for us on our Snowy River adventure. That was lovely, not just to stop and have a chat but to be reminded that yep, we lived in this city for 10+ years and know enough people that we can just randomly bump into them.
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Sign for the Capital City Trail - we didn't follow much of this.
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Old signalling stuff near the entry to Royal Park.
Person walking on a sealed path through scrubby trees
Dan on the way through Royal Park.
Melbourne Zoo tram shelter with a mural of animals painted on it
We didn't go to the zoo, but you can have this picture on a tram stop.
The bike path curves into Royal Park, joining the Capital City Trail (we once walked this loop in one day - and it remains one of my longest distances covered in a day at 30-something kilometres). We jumped off that path behind the zoo, and instead made our way to the native grasslands circle. This was our main additional detour of the walk - we did an almost complete loop, adding about 1km. It’s quite a nice spot to go for a stroll, with big skies and views of the city skyline.
Red box with multiple signs indicating it contains BOOSTER CONNECTION or SPRINKLER BOOSTER CONNECTION or HYDRANT BOOSTER CONNECTION or COMBINED HYDRANT SPRINKLER BOOSTER CONNECTION
I wonder what's in here...
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City glimpses, Flagstaff Gardens.
View down a street towards the city, with a two-pronged cactus growing as tall as a 2 story brick building
Spot the extremely tall cactus.
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Helicopter about to land on the Royal Women's Hospital.
We enjoyed the park beside the children’s hospital as the last bit of this long section of non-roadside walking, then headed through the streets of North Melbourne. A helicopter landed on the Royal Melbourne Hospital as we waited for the traffic lights. We passed the old Meat Market then headed south to stroll through Flagstaff Gardens. The skyscrapers of the city sprang up around us and we crossed William Street to avoid the stream of workers heading to the station. A nice little surprise was the Market Street Park, which gave us a great view of our destination: the super tall building with a golden ‘skirt’.
Garden scene with wide paths, lawn, oak trees and people walking and sitting
Dan on the way through Flagstaff Gardens. It was a very pleasant Friday afternoon, and lots of people were out.
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Late 20th Century vibes - mirrored glass ahoy!
View between tall buildings and over a small park towards an extremely tall skyscraper with a golden, spiky belt or skirt around it about 2 thirds of the way up
Our destination - the pool is in the gold 'skirt'.
It was a quick walk from there across the river and into Southbank. In keeping with my theme of having a swim after a walk, my sister took me to the infinity pool on floor 70 for a dip. Maybe not as refreshing as the creek, but pretty spectacular. I’ve definitely never been swimming somewhere that gives me a view over the top of other high rise buildings, parks, suburbs and the bay before!
View up a river showing autumn trees, tall buildings and a bridge with many wiry scupltures
Crossing the Yarra - autumn is here!

Notes

This was an easy 10km walk, and the only possible issue was that the majority of it was on sealed surfaces. My feet were slightly sore immediately afterwards, but I didn’t notice any twinges the next day. Having a swim helped stop any lingering stiffness, too.
Tabby cat resting one white paw on a table and wearing a serious expression
Nibs has an important point to make in this meeting.
View from high up, looking over a city scape with many tall (but shorter than the viewer) buildings, a lake and park and the sea
View from the couch. Didn't even have to climb a hill!
Small infinity pools and a poolside couch, with a view out the window to the edge of the city and the bay
Pool with a view.
Cup with flowers and cursive writing saying Oh for Fuck's Sake
It's a very good cup of tea in a very good cup.
Honestly, I wondered if I should even write this up as a training walk. But then, I started with 10km walks in January, so I might as well. It did tell me that my walking fitness has improved since then!
Two people in a pool with the same view out of the full length windows
It's pretty cool to look out of the pool you're in and see this kind of view. Wow!

This walk in Naarm (Melbourne) is on Wurundjeri Country. Sovereignty was never ceded and this always was, and always will be, Aboriginal land.

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